Dream settingOut of time

Bonifacio’s magic at dusk

Arrived in Bonifacio yesterday with the girls. At last! Tonight, we’re joining our friends who are here with their families, children and grandparents. To keep everyone happy, we’re going for a walk at dusk. We’re meeting at the Saint-François parking lot, right next to the marine cemetery, in the late afternoon, just after the beach. I’ve heard that the views of Bonifacio from up there are sublime at sunset. And there must be lots more… I can’t wait to discover them!

Coucher Soleil Meurtriere Phare Madonetta Bonifacio

From the tip of Bonifacio

An unforgettable sunset

We’ve been recommended two different spots to watch the sunset from uptown. Good timing: it’ll give us a good excuse to come back and make comparisons! As the meeting point was in Saint-François, a cafe owner suggested we go to the top of the brothers’ staircase, which has been restored to give us some height, or go down into the Saint-François battery, at the foot of the Fanale tower. There’s a sort of sheltered spot, from where you can see the Madonetta lighthouse from a loophole and take some sublime photos of the sunset…

Boscu, timeless

On our way back to town, we take the path linking Saint-François to Montlaur. In this light that oscillates between pink and gold, the old Boscu mill takes on a very poetic quality. You feel like you’ve stepped out of time, imagining what life was like for farmers when these ancient buildings were still in use. We pass the former Sainte-Marie-Madeleine chapel, now converted into a confraternity house. As confrères are present here, you can enter and discover the tools of the old oil mill. Opposite is the Saint-Barthélemy well. You can’t visit it, but knowing that it’s 60 metres underground makes you dizzy! Taking this walk at dusk lends it an almost mystical quality.

Apéro time!

The best way to enjoy the early evening? Aperitifs, of course! And just in time: Bonifacio has dozens of spots to offer, whether on the port, on the beach or in the upper town. In any case, you’re sure to enjoy the breathtaking scenery and the relaxed atmosphere.

A tour of the city before dinner

Early evening inevitably gives the old town a sweet air. While the children are flashing their most enchanting smiles to convince their parents to stop and buy them sweets or an artisanal ice cream, I stop in front of a store selling beautiful coral jewelry. The Bouches de Bonifacio are famous for their intense red coral, and it’s said to bring good luck… A good reason to put some around my wrist! The streets come alive slowly at this hour, and you can feel the hustle and bustle of summer evenings, with stores overflowing with little treasures, holidaymakers looking to nibble on a slice of Italian-style pizza on the go, and those of us who stop in front of every restaurant menu, unable to choose between traditional Corsican cuisine and that which celebrates Italy, which is actually very close by. A real gourmet dilemma!

Festi Lumi, an incredible light show

On our second evening, we’re in luck: it’s the start of Festi Lumi, a magical light show. We took up residence at the start of the Campu Rumanilu path to watch the sun set, and to observe the first beams of light settling on the façade of the Bastion de l’Étendard opposite us. The result lives up to expectations, and then some! The landscape is sublimated by the luminous decor that is being set up. I can’t wait to discover all the sets imagined by the artists. There’s a whole itinerary to discover in the city, with places that will totally change their appearance: a great way to rediscover the monuments and buildings visited today. We’ve got all evening to try out the different installations, have fun with those that allow visitors to create their own images, and try to imagine how we’re going to reproduce the happenings at home with scarves and lamps. It’s sure to be a lot of fun.

Festi Lumi Bastion Etendard Mappping Bonifacio

Relaxing evening on the beach

What better time to go to the beach than at the end of the day? When we went to the tourist office, we were advised to go to Paragan to watch the sunset. It’s a wild beach, and you feel like you’re in an unexplored place. There’s something magical about the light declining over the Mediterranean: the colors change, the sky turns pink, the water darkens and takes on a mysterious quality while remaining enveloping… It’s truly an experience! We decided to have a nocturnal picnic to make the most of the evening, and of course to pack away all our garbage: you don’t leave anything behind in such a heavenly spot. The kids play, the adults sip a glass of rosé while nibbling on a few delicacies gleaned from the town’s traditional produce stores and bakeries… This must be the definition of happiness!

Did you know?

Early evening is the ideal time to visit the market square at the foot of the Bastion de l’Étendard. The spot is set against the cliffs, and offers one of the best views of Diu Grossu, Sardinia and the Pertusatu lighthouse… Voted best photo spot!

Dreamlike decor

After a few days in Bonifacio, there’s only one conclusion to be drawn: the scenery at dusk is majestic. It makes the landscapes dreamlike, giving off a perfume of dolce vita mingled with the pep of summer evenings, those that let you believe that anything is possible and that the night will never end. Maybe that’s the true definition of a vacation… letting yourself be carried away by the evening light and letting your imagination wander in front of crazy panoramas. It’s a philosophy I’ll be trying to instill in everyone who crosses my path.

Our best addressesA great way to end the day!