Art, craftsmen and creatorsBetween know-how and originality

In the footsteps of craftsmen

You may not know it, but Corsica in general and Bonifacio in particular are brimming with artists, craftsmen and creators of all kinds. On the island, creativity is far from being an empty word, whether you’re talking about photography, clothing, painting, jewelry, cutlery, sculpture, delicacies or leather goods. Take a stroll through the narrow streets of Bonifacia, especially rue du Palais, the narrow medieval alleyway that runs alongside the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure, and you’ll be spoilt for choice for an avant-garde gift or a decorative object that you won’t find in any other interior.

Rendezvous in Uptown

When’s the best time to stroll through Uptown? In the morning, of course! A cup of coffee and a croissant in the sunshine on one of the squares is the perfect way to start the day, and you’re off in search of workshops, craft stores and other galleries. Bonifacio, with its narrow streets and cellars converted into creative spaces, is brimming with places and creators to discover. Take a stroll down the narrow rue du Palais, one of the town’s oldest. Just a few dozen meters long, it is home to a variety of designers and craftspeople who have been grouping together here for several years. What’s best? Let your curiosity guide you, push open the doors and observe the buildings with their facades that seem to want to tell a story.

Coral, the red treasure

Bonifacio is the kingdom of coral. This marine animal is particularly prized in the region: cut into jewels, particularly small hands, it is given as a gift at birth or at important moments in life. Coral is said to protect those who wear it, and to discourage evil spirits. More than enough to satisfy the Corsican spirit, quick to believe in the evil eye. In Bonifacio, fishermen have made it their specialty. Some, like Jean-Philippe Giordano, carve it themselves into jewelry or sculptures. As with Deep coral, we love its intense red color, its subtlety and its uniqueness, as no two pieces will ever be perfectly identical. Come to Rue du Palais to discover these little works of art.

From jewelry to delicacies

Corsican almonds, oranges and lemons preserved on the island, hazelnuts, honey from the chestnut grove, a few spices… And here’s a coral to be savored, sublimated by François Rocca-Serra, based at the very top of Rue du Palais. Legend has it that the recipe comes from Emma Poggioli, a young Bonifacian woman who wanted to keep her lover, a certain Napoleon Bonaparte, entertained with her delicacies.

Art in all its forms

Do you love art in all its forms, from the classic to the wildest? Good news: in Bonifacio, you can choose between painting, photography and contemporary art galleries. First stop: rue Saint-Dominique. Push open the door of the Capu galerie. Down a few steps, you enter a former cinema converted into an exhibition and sales space for contemporary art by avant-garde Corsican artists. Leather goods, posters, ceramics, religious objects, clothing and unique jewelry are sure to win you over. Heading up towards the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure, you’ll find several galleries on Rue du Palais. There’s the gallery of Michèle Mallaroni, a painter whose particularity is to paint triptychs, some of which are absolutely immense, often inspired by nature and its soft hues. There’s also the Galerie Sitzia, a former grocer’s store where Dominique Sitzia exhibits her oil paintings, as well as her magnificent basketry work, based on the traditions of Bonifacian fishermen. A few yards away, on rue Madonetta, the Riguardu gallery is sure to attract you. A lover of landscape photography, you’ll find magnificent images of Bonifacio, a unique source of inspiration. You can also have fine art prints made for installation in your own home…

Rings, bracelets, necklaces, clutches...

Are you a coquette or would you like to give a gift to someone who loves pretty things? Bonifacian designers are sure to please! Once again, drop by rue du Palais! There, just a few meters away, you’ll find Marcellara and La Nina. A little further on, at the very top of rue Doria, you’ll find Altima. These small boutiques are unique in that they feature Corsican and even Bonifacian designers. Their style will be different, but the requirement will always be the same: to offer original jewelry or small leather goods, made in small quantities and that you won’t find on everyone else. For the ultimate touch to your outfit, consider the clutches of Stéphanie Cantara, Marcellara’s designer, who handles cork. This material was one of the region’s jewels some sixty years ago, and a unique savoir-faire has been preserved. The little extra? The quality of the pieces! If you talk to the designers, who are often on site, you’ll see that Corsicans love fashion and accessories, and know how to play with them. But they also love beautiful things and value quality over quantity.

The knife, a unique object

As you no doubt know, Corsica is a land of shepherds, of people who work the land, and some of their everyday tools are like real works of art. Foremost among these indispensable objects is the knife. But be warned, a real Corsican knife has very specific characteristics: it’s rather squat, rounded, made from natural materials such as oak, heather or olive wood, or sometimes horn, and Corsican cutlers make their own steel. The best way to find out as much as you can about Corsican knives is to visit a cutler’s shop, either in the Rue du Palais at Ceccaldi, an institution for over 40 years, or nearby in Rue Doria at Terrasses d’Aragon. Craftsmen and salespeople will tell you all about this very special object in Corsican culture, which is maintained and passed on like a precious object.

Do you like to take your time? Talk to artists and craftspeople? Why not request a private tour of a gallery or studio? Many professionals offer this option, which will open wide the doors of these places where their imagination lives.

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Off the beaten track

While not all Bonifacian designers and artists have studios in town, many are exhibited in the boutiques or galleries of their friends and family, and often work from home in the surrounding countryside. Nevertheless, many of them come to town regularly, and are never short of explanations or discussions. And because they’re so passionate about their work, and are often on display in the homes of people who are just as passionate, don’t hesitate to strike up a conversation as soon as the label mentions “fattu in Corsica”.fattu in Corsica” – the equivalent of “made in France” – and they’ll be happy to tell you all about the designer, his or her way of working and the materials used. Another way to discover Corsica and its art of living.

Further information

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