Falaises Citadelle Ciel Gris Automne BonifacioFalaises Citadelle Ciel Gris Automne Bonifacio
©Falaises Citadelle Ciel Gris Automne Bonifacio|Santi Laurini
What to do when grey skies prevail?

Activities in case of rain

Popularized for its permanent sunshine and idleness, Bonifacio has much more to offer. Although bathed in Mediterranean light for much of the year, life in the cliff city is also punctuated by the cycle of the seasons, which provides a welcome change of pace. Occasional showers and grey skies are part of the program of a stay that can be adapted to the sometimes capricious weather conditions. Without a doubt, Bonifacio has no shortage of activities to keep you entertained on rainy days. You can explore the underground chambers of the Bastion de l’Etendard or the Gouvernail, take to the sea to set your sights on the ivory cliffs, sample local produce, or enjoy the unique experience of making the famous pain des morts.

Immersion in Bonifacio's underground chambers

Discover the bowels of the Bastion de l'Étendard

From the outside, you can contemplate the centuries of history that gave rise to this massive, impregnable structure: the Bastion de l’Étendard. Unviolable until recently, today it’s easy to enter this fortified castle and explore its underground chambers, some of which have been carved out of the rock. In the half-light of these galleries, illuminated by meagre openings, we discover the vaults, the rotunda and the large circular hall, reminiscent of the medieval architecture of the ancient defensive tower. At the heart of the building, we are drawn into the “1000 years of fortifications” exhibition, which retraces the history of the city’s fortifications. The film “Le Torrione de Bonifacio” (“Bonifacio’s Torrione”) takes us on a journey through time, also covering the history of the fortifications dating back to the Middle Ages.

Facing up to untamed nature

Take to the sea to contemplate the ivory cliffs

Discovering sea caves

While we found it rather counter-intuitive to take to the open sea on a rainy day, we were reassured to learn that sea outings are perfectly feasible when the swell isn’t inviting. What better way to see these majestic ivory cliffs than on an adventure? After embarking in the harbour, you gradually make your way towards the exit of the Narrows, where the Madonetta lighthouse watches over sailors and yachtsmen from its limestone spur. Below the town perched on its vertiginous walls, we are captivated by the beauty of these gravity-defying dwellings. In an autumnal atmosphere, we sail through the strait between Corsica and Sardinia, much to our delight.

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In an autumnal atmosphere, we sail through the strait between Corsica and Sardinia, much to our delight.

Cultivate your curiosity at the Micro-Folie digital art gallery

Discover the greatest works of art in a virtual format

After this nautical interlude, we return to the upper town and head for the Pisan quarter, home to Bonifacio’s mediatheque. The structure houses the Micro-Folie, a digital art gallery featuring hundreds of masterpieces from twelve national museums and institutions. It’s an original, fun way to marvel at cultural treasures in virtual form. With its self-guided tour mode, this digital museum allows everyone to follow their own navigation, between screen and tablet, and thus discover the secrets of certain paintings according to their affinities. Allow between one and two hours for complete immersion.

Immerse yourself in local traditions

A unique workshop experience

What could be more stimulating than to immerse yourself in the local culture and take home a piece of it in your suitcase? At Les Amis pizzeria on the port, we learn with Paola how to make pain de morts in the purest Bonifacian tradition. Alongside other participants and under the watchful eye of our guide, we work step by step on this pastry, the recipe for which has been entrusted to us. Once our sweet treat is out of the oven, we cut several slices to taste our creations during this collective moment of sharing and exchange. As we approach the church of Saint-Dominique, we’re entranced by the harmonious voices that soar into the sky above the hum of the crowd. It has to be said, we’re late for our polyphonic singing initiation led by Corsican singers. The members of the Libari group are pedagogues, explaining how each member’s voice intertwines and responds to one another. They also share the history of this part of the island’s identity. Initially sung by shepherds or sacred chants, polyphony spread to all Corsicans, who sang to take their minds off a hard day’s work. In addition to religious messages, it recounts the daily lives of men and women through lullabies, poems, songs of love, work or exile. It’s your turn to sing these melodies, whether you’re an experienced singer or an intrepid beginner.

A gastronomy to savour without limits

Taste local produce and enjoy a drink

The identity of a region and a town is undeniably shaped by its culinary and gastronomic culture. Before arriving in Bonifacio, we stopped off at Domaine Zuria, whose wines enjoy a solid reputation. The recently-completed winery, with its terrace overlooking the hillsides, is the ideal setting for savoring a subtly-crafted elixir. Leaving the city’s outskirts, we return to the center, which is teeming with tempting addresses. At La Strada di a Biera, in a warm, human-scale setting, we dip our lips in a wide selection of Corsican beers suggested by Julien. At the Galerie des Ducs, with its superb terrace, we can now sample the delicious hams carefully selected by Tony. As you’ll have gathered, you’ll need more than one evening to discover all the food and drink shops in Bonifacio. On Rue du Palais, we were amazed by the astonishing black olive jam that graces the Assaghju’s charcuterie and cheese boards. A magnificent home-made product! From wine cellars to delicatessens, how can you resist the temptation of l’Antigu and Roba Nostra when you’re planning an aperitif dinner at home? A wide range of the finest Corsican products is available to delight your taste buds.

Did you know?

Domaine Zuria, established in 2010, has been committed from the outset to a responsible approach to the environment and the ecosystems surrounding its vineyards. Working in organic agriculture, the estate is also part of the “Produit local” network, whose professionals are committed to sustainable development, notably through the establishment of short distribution channels.

Admire the works of Buzzo gallery

An exploration of the local art scene

Located on the road to Pertusato, the Buzzo gallery is an art space we discovered after a stroll along the port. If Bonifacio is an open-air museum, it’s always exciting to explore the local art scene. In this art gallery, where realism meets abstraction, three women and one man unveil their singular works, which combine both painting and sculpture. We were struck by the paper sculptures of gallery founder Morgane Buzzo. Through her relief creations, she brings to life corals and fossils straight from the abyss. These paper structures stand alongside contemporary paintings by Thierry Veyssière, Isabelle Drevon’s white marbles sculpted into organic forms, and the paintings of Sylviane L’Hostis, whose canvases express her visceral relationship with water.

Relax in a spa or with a massage

A moment of disconnection and relaxation for yourself

What could be more soothing than a moment to yourself? Before the onset of winter, take the time to relax and enjoy a serene break. In a welcoming, contemporary setting, immersed in the heart of nature, the Version Maquis hotel spa is a unique address. Here, you can enjoy the pleasures of swimming in a vast heated pool, as well as other facilities such as a sauna or hammam. Massages and customized treatments are also available. Other establishments, such as the Belezza Salon Spa and Hôtel Genovse, also offer a range of relaxing services.

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