Balade Mystique Cierge Religion Bonifacio

Mystical stroll

Bonifacio inspired and inspiring

Secret and mysterious, Bonifacio doesn’t always reveal itself to just anyone. Marked by religion – count the number of churches! – and its breathtaking marine cemetery, the medieval city never ceases to amaze. What better time to discover this aspect of Bonifacio than in autumn, when the light declines and the sounds become more hushed, almost discreet?

All Saints’ Day is a sacred time in Corsica, and Bonifacio is no exception. Now is the time to immerse yourself in the mysteries that pervade the cliff city. They are more numerous than you might think, and lend a very special atmosphere to this time of year, perhaps the most mystical of all, along with the Easter celebrations. And just as well, it’s the perfect time to discover Bonifacio with friends…

The sacred between the intimate and the universal

Push open the church doors

More than twenty buildings scattered around the city

To discover Bonifacio’s secrets, don’t be afraid to push open the doors of its churches. And there’s plenty to do! On the Marine, there’s just one, Saint-Erasme, dedicated to the fishermen, of whom there are many in this city of cliffs. In the Haute-Ville, a score of chapels and churches punctuate the streets, sometimes hidden, sometimes restored and transformed, or imposing their majesty on the visitor. But for Bonifacians, mysticism is not just a question of religion. Belonging to a church or brotherhood is almost a way of life, a tradition passed down from father to son, sometimes from childhood. It’s something sacred, touching on both the intimate and the universal.

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A special atmosphere

Between the sacred and the profane

The energy of old stones

What is it that gives Bonifacio’s alleyways such a unique atmosphere? It’s hard to say. Of course, there’s the old-fashioned charm of the old stones, but that’s not all. When you look closely at them, when you glance at the pediments of the houses, when you touch certain walls, you feel an energy, like a little shiver running down your arm. But for that, you need to concentrate, to let yourself be taken by the silence of Saint-Dominique’s nave, almost empty and with its uneven cobblestones. You have to imagine the gatherings of confreres, who meet immutably every week and rehearse traditional hymns. Ask them, if you come across them, why their devotion is to this or that saint. Bonifacians will gladly tell you the reasons for their attachment to these traditions, which blend the sacred and the profane.

From the Pisan quarter to Boscu

Between the Pisan quarter and the cemetery, the stroll can be quite special. After a hot chocolate break in one of the cafés on Fred Scamaroni street in the late afternoon, you walk up Simon Varsi street towards Carrega square. This takes us back to the covered walkway leading to the Roy d’Aragon staircase. We won’t be descending them this time, but we’ll be listening to the wind as the sun declines. Slowly, we come to the Impluvium, an ancient basin used to collect rainwater. Back down the stairs in front of the barracks, across the parking lot and along the dirt track to the left, you’ll find the Saint-Barthélémy well – a 19th-century military building dug into the cliffs to a depth of 60 metres. You can’t visit it yet, but just knowing that it reaches sea level in a cave gives you an idea of the majesty and singularity of the place. We push on a little further, following the sun to reach the Boscu with its ruined mills in a pink-orange light… A dreamy end to the walk.

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Good to know

The Mémoire de paysages project aims to restore the Boscu, a verdant enclave that disappeared at the very end of the 18th century. The town’s children have replanted the vegetation and become patrons of the site.

Vue panoramique du Cimetière marin de Bonifacio avec vue sur la Madonetta en arrière plan

Cimetiere Marin Coucher De Soleil Mer Bonifacio

Allée dans le Cimetière Marin de Bonifacio

Coucher de soleil sur le Cimetiére Marin de Bonifacio

Tombs like houses

The white of the marine cemetery facing the sea

A place that tells the city's story in its own way

How could you not visit the marine cemetery? It’s often said that in Corsica, the most beautiful houses are those of the dead. It’s true that the islanders have always built their vaults in the most beautiful places, those with the most spectacular views. Bonifacio’s marine cemetery is no exception. Whether you go there when the sun is at its zenith or when it’s declining over the horizon, you’ll always find a singular atmosphere, more soothing than intriguing. The family chapels, built like little white houses, tell you in their own way about the life of the city. Although they don’t differ much from one another, the more opulent ones are said to have raised sgiò, the lords of the city. Simple, much more modest tombs also tell us that Bonifacio is a rural town that fought to exist. Built in 1823 when the law forbade burials in churches, the marine cemetery is a world unto itself. At All Saints’ Day, as night falls, candles flicker like the souls they celebrate. A beautiful and poignant spectacle.

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An ancient monastery lost in nature

La Trinité getaway

The mystical atmosphere that surrounds the town is also felt when you venture out into the countryside, just a few kilometers from the old town center. Driving to La Trinité, you can see the sea between the bends. At the end of a winding dirt road, you come to a hermitage, a former monastery dating back to the 13th century, which invites visitors to pause and reflect. Here, too, the stones seem to want to speak, to tell their story. And then, just across the road, as you climb a few rocks, the countryside – the piali – spreads out, revealing the city in the distance. Calm is omnipresent, relaxation almost immediate.

Ermitage De La Trinite Balade Culture Bonifacio

At the Ermitage de la Trinité…

“The interaction between man and site is such that Bonifaciens would like to keep secret this place which, from its dominant position, seems to watch over the city from the cliffs”. B. Di Meglio and E. Tomas, in Les lieux de mémoire de la Corse médiévale. Bonifacio, un territoire d’exception.