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Bonifacio's oldest churchBetween Romanesque and Gothic, inspiring beauty

Church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure

Located in the heart of the citadel, the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure reveals itself through picturesque little streets. As you stroll through the narrow “carruggi”, vestiges of a glorious Genoese past, your eye is quickly drawn to an attractive architectural feature that stands out from the medieval structure: a beautiful rose window with soft Gothic contours. Intrigued, the desire to know a little more leads us to another pleasant discovery. After a few steps, at the crossroads of the alleyways and at the foot of this beautiful rose window, a small square beautifully surmounted by arcades, the forecourt of the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure, opens up before us. The enchantment is immediate!

One of the city's oldest buildings

Mentioned in notarial deeds dating back to the early 13th century, the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure boasts one of the oldest historical monuments in the Genoese colony. Begun by the Pisans in the 12th century, it was completed by the Genoese a century later. It’s at the crossroads between Romanesque and Gothic. And it was this famous blend of architectural styles that so struck writer Prosper Mérimée during his stay in the town in the 19th century!

It’s true that, over the course of its history, the building has undergone numerous alterations, including a terrible fire in 1895. Restorations carried out in recent years have restored the church to its former glory, with a recent Baroque-inspired fresco above the altar.

“In the city center, the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure evokes an Italian campanile with its slender bell tower.”

A campanile with delicately sculpted bays.

You have to look up to fully appreciate the beauty of the 25-metre-high church tower! It appears to have been built in several stages. Here again, the influence of different architectural styles can be seen: late Romanesque and early Gothic. The upper floors take their liberty from the Romanesque and are adorned with rosettes and flowers. Embellished with three-lobed windows, this bell tower is sometimes compared with 15th-century Aragonese constructions. Such attention to detail begs the question? What stories lie behind these stones?

The bell tower, the town’s standard-bearer, has had its share of setbacks! In 1815, when Napoleon’s return from Elba was announced, impetuous Bonapartists hoisted the empire’s flag, provoking a cannonade from the royalists that damaged the bell tower! It wasn’t until recent restoration work that the stigma of this tumultuous episode was removed.

Sacred furnishings in Baroque splendor

A visit to the interior is a real treat for the enlightened lover of Baroque art. The rich polychrome marble high altars are the work of renowned Genoese masters: Giulio Martine, Francesco Maria Schiaffino, Dominico Gagini. The influence of the mother city of Genoa remained as strong as ever in the 18th century.

The church is also known for its fine paintings by Corsican artists, in particular a remarkable 18th-century representation of the Last Supper by Corsican painter Saverio Farinole.

At the heart of city life

In addition to its religious role, the church of Santa Maria Maggiore played an essential role in the city’s history. In the Middle Ages, under its loggia, it was not uncommon to hear the declamation of notarial deeds, or to see the podestate, governor of the city, dispense justice.

Perhaps during your visit to the cliff city, you’ll have the opportunity to relive the little moments that made up Bonifacio’s great history. Every summer, the Office Municipal de Tourisme de Bonifacio organizes theatrical tours of the town. A chance to experience Bonifacio’s history in a way that’s… captivating!

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